My first adaption meant modding the cable end to plug in to my turtlebeach headset, this worked absolutely fine, but due to a lack of a decent connector, was a bit of a pain.
Whilst ,mooching in my garage this morning I found a decent length cable with a pre-molded 2.5mm audio jack already connected. So, it’s on to modding the chat adapter itself to make a more OEM style connector.
WARNING! If you frag your adapter, on your own head be it. I am NOT responsible for anyone elses incompetence, let alone my own. There, liability shelved from me.
Just one note, it may actually work out to be a cheaper method of build than buying the connector on it’s own and looking at some of the connectors available will be neater.
First up, you need to prise the adapter apart. It’s fiddly, but prising from one corner worked for me. The locking tabs are actually inside the adapter, so it’ll feel like it’s going to break. Just be firm, but not violent with it and you’ll be fine.
So we’re now presented with the internals, and a screw off cover to remove. Be aware, there are 5 screws to undo, using a Torx screw driver. [EDIT : Thanks to StinkyMcStinkson over on Reddit, it's a T5 Torx scredriver]
You can see in the above photo where the headphone cable is soldered onto the board. It’s simply a case of desoldering those four, and soldering on your new cable.
The pin designations are here, just make sure you hook it up right and solder the correct wires to the correct solder pads.
[EDIT : SOME FOLKS .... have experienced low audio issues connecting the wiring in this way, the fix is simple. Just connect the GND wire to GND and leave HPR disconnected. There is no need to bridge HPR and GND!]
It’s then just a case of putting it all back together and play.
You should end up with an OEM look with a fitted and sealed connector on the end. Swish!!